how to explore the byways of Europe

Roman amphitheater in Verona (c) 2017 by David Ourisman, all right reserved

Excellent advice was offered in today's column by Rick Steves in many Sunday newspapers: avoid destinations congested with tourists and look for what he calls back doors. In Steves' words, "Many travelers go to crowded, touristy places — then complain about the crowds." Here's my takeaway from his article.

Seek out secondary destinations. Rome is a very crowded tourist destination, and the Colosseum has long ticket lines. If getting up-close-and-personal with an ancient Roman colosseum is on your bucket list, consider the smaller (and very walkable) town of Verona in northern Italy. Pictured above is the Arena di Verona, a historical colosseum minus the crowds. You can even attend live opera there in the evening.

Avoid (what have become) tourist traps. While the Louvre and the Musée d'Orsay are both world class museums in Paris, you'll have to contend with the crowds. If you want to check the Louvre off your bucket list, enjoy the spectacular but relatively empty Napoleonic bedrooms and avoid the hundreds of tourists pushing up in front of the (tiny) Mona Lisa. If you love the French impressionists, visit the lesser-known Marmottan Museum (that houses the world's biggest collection of Monet's art).

Spend the night in destinations that are crowded during busy daytime hours — but are perfectly delightful in early morning and evening. Saint-Paul-de-Vence is a cute little town near the French Riviera. The pedestrian pathway through the town's center is inundated by day with visitors from bus tours and cruise ships ... but if you spend the night at Virtuoso hotel Le Mas De Pierre, you'll have the town practically to yourself.

Look for ways to skip the lines. Google secret entrances to the Louvre; you don't have to queue up in front of the pyramid. Purchase museum passes — or timed admission tickets — and bypass ticket lines entirely. It's even possible to arrange private tours before and after regular hours for many popular attractions.

Best of all, you don't have to figure this out on your own. Together with our trusted Virtuoso travel partners all over Europe, we get you Insider Access. Do you want to plan a trip that maximizes your precious time? that explores the byways of Europe? that takes advantage of the lesser-known back doors that local experts know best? Just drop us an email, and we'll help you Discover More.

copyright (c) 2017 by Ourisman Travel LLC. All rights reserved. We provide Virtuoso and other Preferred Partner amenities as an affiliate of Brownell, a Virtuoso® Member. If you have comments on this column, or questions about booking travel, email me or visit my website.

travel in the age of EasyJet | a 4-part strategy

graphic from easyjet.com which should thank me for the free link

A client wanted to plan a trip to Athens, Mykonos, and Santorini. He contacted me this Tuesday for his dates in June ... and I soon discovered that every hotel he was interested in was totally booked. There was no space whatsoever for his dates at the Grand Bretagne or the King George in Athens. Choices in Mykonos and Santorini were extremely limited. Quite a frustrating experience, as he was ready to book a trip ... so he decided to postpone.

Europe is crowded these days ... and a big reason for this is that it's so cheap and easy for Europeans to fly around the continent. Just hop aboard a discount airline, and be in Paris, London, Rome, or a Mediterranean beach destination in little more than an hour. And if you can get there for 26.99£ as EasyJet's website promises (see above), why not!

You need a strategy to plan your trip to Europe.

1. Book early. 60 days is not enough lead-time to plan a trip to the Greek Islands in June, as my frustrating Tuesday impressed on me. Start 330 days ahead. Think hotels as soon as you start booking your award tickets. You'll have more availability, and you'll also put a ceiling on the rate you pay; flexible rates can always be lowered!

2. Explore less well known destinations. Rome, Venice, and Florence are always crowded; ever felt like a sardine packed into the Sistine Chapel? When you go back to Italy, visit lesser known destination such as Verona (where you can see Juliet's balcony), Sicily, and Puglia. Avoid the thundering herds of tourists and encounter a more authentic side of Italy.

3. Employ private guides and drivers. Pricey, yes, but knowledgeable local guides can save you time, your most precious asset. Why stand in queue to buy tickets or get through the front door? Our Virtuoso on-sites can even arrange after-hours tours of many attractions. Imagine having a private candlelit dinner at the Library of Celsus in Ephesus ... after all the crowds have left, a memory that will last a lifetime! Or book a VIP skip-the-line tour of the Eiffel Tower or Paris Catacombs.

4. Take advantage of local experts. Your Virtuoso travel consultant has a network of local experts practically everywhere on earth. These ladies and gentlemen have the experience and connections to craft a memorable European vacation, sparing you much of the stress encountered by those in the back of an EasyJet.

copyright (c) 2015 by David Ourisman LLC. All rights reserved. We provide Virtuoso and other Preferred Partner amenities as an affiliate of Brownell Travel. If you have comments on this column, or questions about booking travel, email me or visit my website.

Verona | undiscovered Italy

the Roman amphitheater in Verona, Italy

One of my best tips for avoiding crowds in Italy is to visit places that are not on the radar of most tourists. Verona is one such town. A very attractive city with great shopping, Verona is an UNESCO World Heritage Site with two claims to fame. 

(1) The Roman Arena pictured above is the third largest Roman amphitheater in Italy. More than an archeological site, operas are performed in this arena during the summer months and are extremely popular.

(2) Verona has an unique place in literary history, being the setting for three Shakespearian plays: Romeo and Juliet, The Two Gentlemen of Verona, and The Taming of the Shrew. You can see the balcony from which Romeo called to Juliet.

Where to stay in Verona? Palazzo Victoria is a new luxury hotel, part of the Salviatino Collection. It is an engaging mix of old and new, built within an old palazzo yet with all the comforts of a contemporary five star hotel. Breakfast is included, as is free WiFi for guests. I spent two evenings at Palazzo Victoria last week and very much enjoyed the hotel and its superb restaurant and spa!

Update — Conde Nast has listed Palazzo Victoria as one of the hot new hotels of 2013.

Palazzo Victoria (search here on Google)

copyright (c) 2012 by David Ourisman LLC. All rights reserved. If you have comments on this column, or questions about booking travel, email me or visit my website. .

Italy in October

My next trip is officially planned ... I'll be going to Italy in October for some hotel site inspections. Here's what my plans entail:

Four Seasons Hampshire. OK, this is not in Italy, but as getting to Venice with one stop from SFO means an airport change in London and a very late evening arrival in Venice, I decided to treat myself to an overnight in the English countryside. Just 35 minutes from Heathrow, I'm looking forward to the chance to see the county of Hampshire, have pub grub and Guinness for dinner, and maybe even visit Winchester Cathedral. Then, my sensible 9:20 a.m. flight the next morning lands me just past noon in... 

Venice, city of canals. I haven't been to Venice in 34 years. I'm looking forward to wandering the streets and bridges of Venice. I don't expect to visit all 10 Virtuoso hotels in a day-and-a-half, but I do expect to visit a fair number including the Cipriani, Danieli, Europa & Regina, Londra Palace, and Ca' Sagredo.

Verona, where Romeo and Juliet lived. I will be the guest of Palazzo Victoria, one of three hotels that are hosting this trip for a number of travel consultants. I have never before visited Verona, so I'm especially interested in exploring this destination, especially the pink marble Roman amphitheater. 

Florence, city of the Renaissance. This will be my third trip to Florence. I've seen the two major museums (the Accademia and the Uffizi Gallary) and have climbed the famous dome of the cathedral designed by Brunelleschi. It's an amazing story, and you should read Brunelleschi's Dome before you visit. We will be hosted by Il Salviatino, and I'm planning to do site inspections at the Four Seasons Florence, Rocco Forte Hotel Savoy, and Helvetia & Bristol.

Milan, site of The Last Supper. My 15 minutes in front of Leonardo's classic masterpiece The Last Supper was the highlight of my previous trip to Italy, and if given the chance, I'll see it again. It's a special feeling to spend time with a classic work of art. Our host is the new Armani Hotel, and I also plan to visit the Four Seasons Milan, Park Hyatt Milan, and Principe Di Savoia.

Virtually every hotel mentioned in this blog is a member of Virtuoso. You can receive the Virtuoso amenities (free daily breakfast, room upgrades when available, and additional added-value perks) just by making your booking through a Virtuoso travel consultant. It's a great way to enjoy the most luxurious hotels in the world, while getting the best value for your euros.

Italy in October (search here on Google)

copyright (c) 2012 by David Ourisman LLC. All rights reserved. If you have comments on this column, or questions about booking travel, email me or visit my website.